UVtools allows to use PrusaSlicer for third party SLA-printer: https://github.com/sn4k3/UVtools/tree/master

I still don’t recommend SLA at home. Too much of a hassle in terms of safety.

Shaft diameter and length is also part of it.

NEMA is just a mechanical aspect and contains zero information about the performance. Equally comparing motors by torque isn’t the full picture as the inductance (and other aspects) can be different. Equally important is the stepper-driver & supply voltage.

Get a BambuLab P1S without AMS.

I don’t want to be bogged down with having to run proprietary slicers through Wine and things like that. I am not sure how big of an issue that is with e.g. Bambu or Creality (if at all), but I’ve seen enough rug-pulls and enshittification processes that I don’t really want to risk that.

You can use PrusaSlicer, OrcaSlicer, Cura or some other slicer with them. They run perfectly fine in LAN-mode removing the Bamub Lab server stuff/question from the equation.

While not every replacement parts are also made by third party companies things like nozzles, PEI-sheets or fans are available from third parties.

As future-proof as I can possibly hope for.

I would argue money in the bank account is far more future-proof than any 3D printer can be and Bambu Lab costs a fraction of what a Prusa core one costs. So when the future arrives use the saved money to buy a next-gen printer.

Locally produced (I’m EU based).

Bambu Labs are well made so not a safety hazard but I can understand this point.

The Prusa core one looks very promising but at the same time, it isn’t for everybody and the general consumer is likely better of by buying the P1S. For the price of 1 Prusa One you could buy 2 Bambu Lab P1S and 10-20kg of good PETG.

regarding Support: Difficult question. Prusa has excellent support but the last experience I had with their printers before dropping them wasn’t that great and was riddled by issues/bugs. BambuLab on the other have the it just works magic but the support needs to improve. You send them a bunch of log files as requested. They probably only look at the oldest file (that might be months old) and provide a “wrong” reply based on that as a solution without looking at the text you wrote.

Air leakage isn’t an issue. Based on the enclosures I already have they do a pretty damm good job of keeping the nasty ABS fumes inside.

Just quick math but I should be able to do it. Given that a lot of enclosures can reach 40-50°C without active heating and insulation I guess 70°C passive is realistic when you do 6cm of XPS. I probably will go with an overshoot and cool down the air for the temperature control approach.

Big & bulky isn’t an issue as the stock printer is already big and bulky with lots of space for insulation (originally used for the 4 filament spools but they live in a dry box so it is free real estate): The printer already has 60mm extrusion I can fill up with so no additional bulk is added. The bottom plate will be 2cm to keep as much print volume as possible in the z-direction. Maybe I can squeeze also 5cm there with some 3D-scanning and milling pockets.

Even manufacturers of high end printers accept the they will only get ‘good enough’ and that they need to have the heater cycle on and off to keep a steady temperature.

Some heating or cooling is required to keep it stable. Don’t matter if you need heating or cooling just something for regulation.

The enclosure for the other printer is slightly more complicated as I am aiming for a 150°C chamber temperature (135°C is required) there which means stainless steel or aluminum inner lining and rockwool insulation that can’t be milled to shape like XPS.

Is it really worth it for the small gain in finished product?

Half the fun is pushing limits and seeing what works and what doesn’t.

It’s fine.

Not great but won’t cause issues. Might have a look at the configuration to check that the matching thermocouple type is selected/configured.